Still Life

Chemists vs. main source of coffee bitterness from PhysOrg.com

Bitter taste can ruin a cup of coffee, we all know that. Now, chemists in Germany and the United States say they have identified the chemicals that appear to be largely responsible for java’s bitterness, a finding that could one day lead to a better tasting brew (yeah sure). Their study, one of the most detailed chemical analyses of coffee bitterness to date, was presented today at the 234^th national meeting of the American Chemical Society.

In the article they mention researching methods to remove bitterness, by processing the green bean or whatever. Such a wrong approach. True to our arrogant genes. How about using decent beans, doing proper roasting, studying the art and science of brewing methods and applying all these to achieve the experience. And make that perfect cup of coffee… Instead, no, we (humans), know better and we can change everything, fix everything. Ruin everything! Then mass produce, maximize profit, make more money.

I ponder what motives these researchers have? I bet they are not coffee aficionados looking for the perfect cup.

No they didn’t make their coffee better…
No it’s not only their questionable coffee producers “friendly” policies…
Now it appears their treatment of workers is under scrutiny as well…

So much for corporate social responsibility. Starbucks are ultimate pretenders.

Yeah me too… it’s trendy lately, everyone seems to do so, for various reasons (just do a google “I hate Starbucks”). I don’t remember the last time I went into one of their shops. All they have in their catalog is some sweet and milky coffee based beverages, topped with all kinds of flavorings that kill even the faintest coffee taste and aroma they may contain. An espresso is all you can order if you like coffee (and don’t want donuts in liquid form). It’s been long now that they have stopped using a proper espresso machine, and their personnel had any knowledge of the barista art. They use super-automatic beasts which are obviously calibrated to spit out mediocre coffee, barely good to serve as the basis of their unfortunate caffeinated drinks.

BUT… the espresso machine at work is broken (it’s been weeks now, sigh…). The coffee shop in our office building is closed this week due to summer vacations (not that their coffee is a thrilling experience). And I want to get some coffee. My first attempt is at the local pastry shop near my house which I visit every morning to buy freshly baked bread (they do make great bread and pastry). I’ve noticed in the past that they have a La Cimbali M32 2-group Bistro sitting behind the counter, and their grinder loaded with beans (of a brand I don’t even recall), which are obviously sitting in the hopper for ages. So I don’t expect much. But I go ahead and order a doppio. I walk out of the shop, take a sip, and dump it right away before I get in the car. Don’t blame them though, they couldn’t know or do better.

And I think ok, I am off to the Starbucks on the block next to the building where I work, perhaps it’s not that bad as I remember it was. The only thing I was pretty sure about is that in Starbucks a double espresso, is always a double ristretto, and when I enter I order a double lungo, hopping that I will get a proper doppio. Alas… you can’t even imagine what the girl preparing the coffee did: After pulling the shot (obviously pressing a button, nothing more), she takes the cup, puts it under the tap, and fills the cup (to a level she thought sufficient) with water. And serves me this abomination of an espresso! I didn’t know how to react. I begin imagining excuses, e.g. perhaps their super-automatics do not have the option to key-in a doppio lungo, or she doesn’t know how to, or what-ever. 2.5 euros they charge for that. I decide not to make a fuss about it, take the “black matter” and dump it right outside the shop.

I can’t think of shop open or capable to serve a decent coffee at the moment. Athens is no place for a coffee lover, especially in the mid-August when everyone is away in vacations. No coffee for me this morning…

I admit it, I am a caffeine addict. I drink 3-4 times a day coffee, or tea. Depending on the time or occasion I go for a different kind: strong black tea in the morning, double greek (turkish if you prefer) when I arrive at work, espresso after lunch or dinner. At least that’s the combination that does the trick for me at present, although I tend to change my coffee habits frequently.

Pursuing perfection in these everyday cherished moments of caffeine intake I was able to offer a quality tea or greek coffee to myself using carefully selected ingredients and strictly following the preparation ritual (based on tradition, facts and personal experience). No special equipment needed there and preparation admittedly simple.

But I didn’t have it all. Espresso was and still is for me the absolute coffee experience. It holds a special place in my gourmet psyche. If at the right time (never in the morning!) and right taste and smelling senses acceptors state (that is why espresso is at best after a good meal), a quality espresso can be a sensual experience. But it was hard enough to get a decent shot in the job with the mediocre equipment and silly espresso pods. And even in a cafe, the shots vary widely, more often that not being simply satisfactory. Never top quality. That’s why I made the decision: I would buy all I need and train myself to prepare a shot. Then, at least when I was home, I would be able to enjoy an espresso shot of high standards (high expectations!!)

The quest was on:

• I had to educate myself in the espresso world.

• Select the proper equipment (given a rather tight budget) and procure.

• Find a way to buy decent coffee. You see here in Athens the best you can find are standard, industrial Illy, Lavaza and the kind.

To cut a long story short:

• Reading and browsing the internet, a lot of sites helped me. To mention a few Coffee Geek, Home Barista, Whole Latte Love and many others, as well as the always bewildering Wikipedia.

• Reading reviews in the sites, searching online shops and thinking about it for more than 2 months, finally I did it. A Gaggia combo: Gaggia Classic, Gaggia MDF and base from La Gondola

  (thanks for the great service guys):

• Again thanks to good advice from many internet coffee fans my prefered coffee provider now is Has Bean Coffee. A great selection of coffee beans and espresso accessories, with good service and respect for the delecate coffee product.

It’s now more than 2 months I am a happy owner of the equipment. And it takes time to experiment and learn. In the beginning I was devastated. I couldn’t get a decent shot by no means. Then you start to learn how to control the variables of a good espresso. The beans, the grind, the tamping, the time. Not difficult to understand, but tough to successfully combine. Being persistent I think I have reached a good point for a novice. That’s why I dare present a few photos of my shots. I have finally managed to be persistent enough in my shots, to be able to photo the outcome during the shot :-) I still believe I have a long way to go:

0 sec (on):

6 sec:

12 sec:

18 sec:

25 sec (off):

One last thing: Brewing espresso at home leads you into another never ending trip of gadgets and accessories. What I want next? Check it out: The espro tamper :-)

(Some months and a lot of shots after the original post: Ok now I know this one was under-extracted. It is obvious from the crema color and texture. I didn’t know any better. Cause? most probably grind level and tamping.)